Day 23 – Astorga to Foncebadon

26kms today from Astorga and I am almost at the highest point on the way.  Tomorrow I will climb to 1,515m and I intend to be up there to see the sun rise tomorrow morning.  

Most people stopped at Rabunal but I got there and it was only 11am and felt I had a few more kms in me so set off up the hill for Foncebadon.
Had an interesting encounter on my way this morning.  Turned a corner to head towards Rabanul and here was a man dressed in medieval gear with this beautiful falcon


He had a inlaid box on the table with a sign in all different languages telling you to open the box to see the most beautiful thing in the world.  I opened it and guess what. It was a mirror hahaha. Very charming man!

The countryside has changed yet again and starting to do a few hills



It is still really hot. Averaging about 26-28 degrees everyday and not much shade.  I do not know how anyone could walk this way in the summer.  

Got to Rabanal and even though it was only 11am I had to have a beer as I was very hot.  

Took it outside and sat with some lovely people.  Everyone you meet on the way is lovely.  I met about 4 English people who were cycling the way.  Don’t envy the hills on he bikes. I also met a father and son who were from Denmark and they were cycling as well.  Yet again we sat in the shade and discussed the problems of the world and how we could fix them.  As we were all leaving I asked them why they were cycling and not walking as it is a pilgrimage the son turned to me and told me he had walked it 7 times!!! 

Don’t know whether I could do that!

I only had another 6kms to Foncebadon but it was all uphill and very steep and rocky path 


Wandered into Foncebadon at about 1.30 and that was it for me 



I have been walking with a lovely German guy over the last couple of days, Rolf, and we hit town together so I followed him into the albergue.  Well I want you all to know this is my lucky night.  I am the only woman in the albergue and I am tonight sleeping with 8 men!!!

After all the washing and showering was done sitting in the courtyard with another lovely Hungarian called Chubba.  Spelt csuba. We are going to walk 2 kms this evening to the top of the hill to see the sun set from the highest point on the Camino.  

So I am sitting here with my jug of sangria


Surrounded by men and enjoying life to the fullest.  


Well what a fun night I have had.  Tomorrow I reach the highest part of the Camino and as it is only 2kms out of town a few of us – me and the boys – took a bottle of wine after dinner and walked up to the spot and took photos as the sun was setting and then went and sat in the park opposite and had our wine, laughed ourselves silly and all with an almost full moon above us 






There is stefan from Texas, csubba from Hungary, Rolf from Germany and Barry from Murwillumbah.  

So now a really late night – it is after 10 and we are home in our beds and will be up in the morning to return to see the sun come up on our way to Ponferrada.

Buenos noches señors y senoras 

Author: Baguettes cheese and wine

Cycling through Brittany and the Loire valley in June

5 thoughts on “Day 23 – Astorga to Foncebadon”

  1. Maggie, another perfect 24 hours. It really is amazing how lovely the people are and the sights and stories you can see and hear. You and the boys – love it.

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  2. Another day full of wonderful memories for you Mags, and such a great way to celebrate being at the highest point of your journey……..love it xx

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  3. Wow, Maggie, just beautiful. Love the falcon, photo of the sunset view over the valley below, great people to walk/party with! Gaynor xo

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